Let´s Stop Here

"Ok, let´s stop here", is apparently what the fourth Inca emperor Mayta Capac said when coming back from a campaign on the coast. "Ari Quepay" are the Quechuan words that would have come out of his mouth.

"Ok, let´s stop here", is what Señor Hans said as well, and that is what he did. Arequipa is a nice place where I found a relaxing hostal, El Tambo Viejo (recommended, see link) and met some nice people to spend a few days with.

One of those, Rosie (or Lady Rose) I already met in Nasca where we both came away from the obligatory Nasca lines flyover feeling a little conned. (I think I have never been lied to so many times in so short a timespan as when I was sold the flight ...) - on the side, in my humble opinion, the lines and the flight are extremely overrated. It´s not worth your $50. Don´t do it -
But a good thing came from it, as we spent the rest of the afternoon at the pool of the poshiest hotel in town for 16 soles (4 euros), including a meal and a drink ... strangely enough the only place in Nasca where we didn´t have the feeling people were going to any length to get the last coin out of our pockets.

Tourism ... whenever it gets too big it gets ugly and here in the south of Peru it has gotten ugly. When you get off a bus, you are immediately attacked by a horde of touts wanting you to sell whatever (I don´t know what, because I ignore them and walk straight through and over them towards my already planned destination). And then they accuse you of being rude if you don´t take the time to grab the little leaflets they are shoving underneath your nose while you are desperately trying to get your backpack from the bus ... (this was in Pisco).
Today I was charged $7 - btw you know when you are in tourist land when they start charging in dollars in stead of the local currency, I pay local nonetheless - to look down a canyon to see condors ... I asked if the condor was included. Well, apparently it wasn´t because I didn´t see any, but hey. (I read that the tourist development is scaring away the condors ... right) .
But the views were very good and the hot springs a few hours later made the day. And I did the two day trippy on my own and not with a tour company (which means that you don´t pay in dollars).

Arequipa, thankfully is too big to be so totally enveloped by tourism as Pisco and Nasca, although you should try to walk the four sides of the (otherwise amazing) Plaza de Armas here without ending that little stroll without at least four little Peruvian "come-in-to-my-restaurant" girls hanging around your neck. But all is well in the old Tambo, quietly outside of the main city center, where the best experience I had, was the fantastic breakfast the four of us (Rosie, Stefan, Isabelle and I) made the second morning in the lovely and sunny courtyard of the hotel. Getting fresh fruit, yoghurt-drink, soft bread (first non-stale bread in Peru) and yummie heavenly Queso Fresco from around the corner.

When you think of it, overly touristy experiences can really ruin an otherwise amazing site or activity. And when it comes down to it, it isn´t so much the place but the whole atmosphere that determines how good it is. That´s why the unique and world-famous Nasca lines were no contest for my adventures to Batan Grande in the sand forests near Chiclayo, let alone ancient Caral. How many people can you point out who know of these places ? (Yes, all of you. But that´s because I am educating you ...). Mind though that it isn´t a universal rule that tourism ruins the experience. Please go and see the Taj Mahal, the Pyramids of Gizeh (although again here, go to the quiet Djoser Pyramid for an even better experience) and do Le Tour Eiffel.

And now I am going to the city of Cuzco, THE most touristy spot in this fine continent. How will I experience it and, this is little poll for you, will I do the "Inca Trail" and/or go and see "Macchu Picchu" ?

Place your bets !