Peru and the Peruvians - Part 2 of 2

On my last day here in Cuzco, after almost 2 and a half months in Peru, I can inform you some more about everybody´s friends, the Peruvians. Here goes !

All settlements of any size boast a so-called "Plaza de Armas", a central square which is the main activity hub of the town. The name is from the olden Spanish days, when the "armaments" were kept there. It is usually square indeed and lined with benches, trees, grass, flowers and what more, which usually makes it one of the nicest places to relax, as the concept of "parks" is completely alien to Peru. So what more can you see at the "Plaza" ?

• One or more churches (mostly one)
• One or more young couples making out (mostly more), or small bands of boys and girls trying to get to that stage
• A host of post-middle-aged photographers who charge to take pictures of anyone at the fountain in the Plaza who wants to. As opposed to Señor Hans who also lurks at the Plaza taking pictures of people, but he does not charge anything and doesn´t give the pictures to the people anyhow. And he has a bigger camera, which gets looks respect, envy and fear :-)
• A fountain
• Little kids feeding the pigeons, or mostly trying to scare, grab and kick the pigeons

The one thing though that perhaps characterises a Peruvian town more than the Plaza is the Noise. Our friends have an entirely different concept of what is acceptable and not. And I mean completely, like honking your little fruit-cart-bicycle through the streets 6am on Sunday mornings ... on any place in town you can on the average enjoy three loudly-played radio songs simultaneously.

• Some more interesting observations:
  The adoration of 80s European music, it´s so embarassing ... as I am typing this "Careless Whisper" is on the radio, but it´s everywhere. I had dinner in a chifa (Chinese restaurant) in Chiclayo and they were playing a compilation DVD of "Modern Talking", probably the most 80ish of the 80s. I had to cover my mouth, I was laughing so hard !
• There are loads of the little we-sell-everything shops you see all over the poorer countries (like Belgium). I love them. They also like to combine their shop or business with a copyshop. My favourite is the hairdresser-copyshop ... copy while you are getting your hair cut !
• Pedestrians do not exist for car drivers. They will not stop or change their course ! In countries like India or Egypt you can just start crossing a busy street and you become part of miraculously flowing traffic entity. In Peru you will get run over ...

Now we´re talking traffic anyway. Just a bit more on public transport. It´s marvelous! I had one night bus with huge leather reclining chairs. Most luxurious trip ever. Not all buses are like that of course, but it´s not bad. They show illegally copied movies on the longer trips, and you don´t have to bring food or drink. Any chance they get, tiny women jump in and sell anything you might need: from the usual water and gaseosas to pudding, empanadas, King Kongs to hot mais and little bags of chicken or pork with potatoes. Sometimes there is a little performance by a clever young sales lad before he tries to sell his special chewing gum.

The collectivos, combis and carros privide the local and regional transport. Like most of the buses they stop for anyone who wants to get in (doesn´t matter if it fits or not) and they stop wherever you want as long its on the route and as long you shout "abaja!!" loud enough. They are frightfully cheap, never try to overcharge gringos and if you´re lucky, you will be envangelised on the way by means of special audio tapes ... oh yeah, and whenever possible, they are Toyotas. As are most other cars.

Although they claim to have a gazillion types of potatoes, Peru is not a country to visit for the food. The national dish, Ceviche, is raw fish ... just like in Holland and Sweden. Enough said ... The best value you can get is the afternoon menu. For 3-5 soles you´ll get a choice of soup, rice dish, limonada and sometimes a postre. Don´t expect the food to be hot though. The Peruvians like their meals cold, their bread stale and their milk warm.

However ... there are rare little jewels to find here, and I will list you my finds:

• Inca Kola ! El Sabor de Peru (desde 1936). The shiny yellow carbonated drink is a lust for the thirsty throat. If I fly back from Lima you lucky bastards will be treated to a taste never before imagined (you´ll have to wait a bit though ...)
• Jugo de Naranja. In most towns on the street corners in the morning. 50 centimos or "oon sol" and right before your eyes the sweetest juiciest orange juice will be pumped into un baso grande. Soooo good !
• Churros (pay attention mum). The main type of churros here is different than in Spain ... much better. Warm and fresh with a caramel-like filling. The ultimate evening snack (or dinner by going three times round the block, buying Churros every pass)

And yes ... I have had "Cuy", for the Pratchett fans amongst us, the best description would be "rat-onna-stick". The taste is not bad though ... and it´s crrrunchy :-)